Plant Tissue Culture &
Orchid seed sowing for
hobbyists
If you have
very limited and valuable orchid seeds ,the media and chemicals in this
manual are not suitable . In this case you can substituted
media with orchid medium.
Micropropagtion is an important
alternative to more conventional
methods of plant propagation. It involves production of plants from
very small plant parts (e.g. buds, nodes, leaf segments, root segments
etc.), grown aseptically (free from any microorganism) in a container
where the environment and nutrition can be controlled. The resultant
plants are genetically identical to parent plants.
All research laboratories use
many high tech equipment to
achieve plant production through tissue culture, it is important to
note that many home gardeners and hobbyists could substitute the high
tech equipment and instruments with ordinary house hold items.
Items Needed for Home Tissue Culture:
1 - A sterile still air cabinet used
to transfer plants. A fish tank on
its side makes an ideal transfer cabinet. Any perspex or glass chamber
with dimensions of 50 cm (length), 40 cm (height) and 40 cm
(depth)
could easily be made into a transfer cabinet.
Or you can buy glove bags.

You can buy Glove bags from sigma aldrich
http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/labware/products/aldrich-atmosbag.html
2 - A pressure cooker for
sterilisation of media, instruments, water,
paper towelling etc.
3 - Glass jars (baby food jars are
excellent) and take away food
containers with lids which can withstand the heat inside a pressure
cooker are ideal vessels to use.
4 - Scalpel and forceps
5 - Paper towelling or even A4 white
copy paper, cut to size, can be
sterilised and used for a sterile cutting surface.
6 - A spirit lamp containing ethanol
for flaming the instruments (avoid
using Methanol as it is toxic!).
7 - Hand held spray bottle containing
70% alcohol solution to spray the
transfer chamber and other surfaces.
8 - Dilute chlorine solution e.g. 1/4
dilution of the household bleach for use in surface sterilisation of
plant material.
9 - Any skin disinfectant
(obtainable from any chemist
shop).
10 - Media (see below)
Media Preparation
All the ingredients indicated below
can be purchased using the super
market, chemist and a health food shop.
If you have very limited and valuable orchid seeds ,the media and
chemicals in this manual are not suitable . In this case you can
substituted media and chemicals with orchid maintenance medium.
1- Two cups of rain water
2- A quarter cup of sugar
3- Fertiliser stock: 1/2 tablespoon all purpose 10:10:10 (N.P.K.) water
soluble fertiliser in 1L of water: use one cup of stock for this recipe.
4- Inositol tablets (500 mg): 1/2 tablet
5- Vitamin tablet with thiamine: 1/2 tablet- Any multivitamin tablet
may be used.
6- Agar flakes: 4 tablespoons
This is the basic media. For
preparation of multiplication and rooting
media add 1/2 cup of coconut milk and 1/2 teaspoon of malt. Replacing
the coconut milk with 1/2 cup of green tomato puree or 1/2 cup of
freshly squeezed orange juice may produce different responses. Ensure
that the pH of medium is always between 5 and 6 using narrow range pH
indicator tape. Adjust pH if necessary, with acid e.g. Citric acid or
base e.g bicarb soda.
Mix the ingredients in a saucepan
and gently boil until the agar has
dissolved, stirring continuously to stop the agar sticking and
subsequently burning at the bottom of the pan. Dispense into empty
glass jars, using a ladle, so that the medium is about 2 cm deep. Cover
and process in a pressure cooker. Cook for 15 minutes after the
pressure is reached (this will be achieved when the pressure valve
starts letting steam out).
You can buy orchid media
from ORCHIDSOURCE
http://www.orchidsource.com/GB_catalog.html
OR
from PhytoTechnology Laboratories
http://www.phytotechlab.com/
Sterilising Instruments and Other
Items
Forceps and scalpels can be sterilised
by being wrapped in Al. foil and
cooked in the pressure cooker
for 15 minutes. These items can also be
sterilised by being washed in chlorine solution .
PRESSURE COOKER,
SANICLAVE 100 STERILIZER Product ID: S736
Storage
Temperature: RT
Description:
► Complete Cycle (Warm Up &
Sterilization) in 45 min or Less
► Internal Temp: 122° C
► Pressure: 16 psi
► Self-Contained Electric (120
VAC) Heating Element
► Fully Programmable
► Digital Display
► Removable Stainless Steel
Chamber and Cover
► Fusible Plug Pressure Release
► Over-Temperature Thermal
Cutout
being dipped in
alcohol and flamed.
Sterile water is needed for rinsing
plant material and sterile paper
towelling to be used as a clean surface to work on. The manipulation
can be accomplished on the paper. When the operation is completed, the
towel can be discarded and a new sterile surface selected from the
sterile supply. The water can be sterilised in glass jars. Place paper
inside a paper bag and cook them in the pressure cooker above the water
level. The bag will be wet on completion of sterilisation. Transfer the
bag to an oven set at 80 šC and allow the bag to dry inside the oven.
Do not unwrap the papers until needed.
Sterilisation of Plant Material
All plant material can be sterilised
in diluted domestic bleach, for
example clorox (1/4 cup bleach + 3/4 cup of water + 1 drop
of detergent- detergent acts as surfactant). Put plant or orchid green
pod ( attempting to sow green
pods the first time around, as success rates are highest when you start
with a sterile capsule.later discuss the cleaning of contaminated seed.
). in a jar
containing the bleach for 10-20 minutes. Agitate frequently. Discard
the chlorine solution, this process will kill bacteria and fungi and
sometimes some parts of the plant such as outer bud scales and softer
shoots. Rinse plant pieces twice with sterile water.
DRY SEED SOWING
TECHNIQUES
Once a seed pod has opened and spilled
its seed, or split open even slightly, you must assume that the seed is
now contaminated with bacteria or spores of fungus. The biggest problem
is fungus spores. Spores are coated with an impervious coat that
protects them from chemicals and heat to a great extent. In order to
sterilize the seeds of orchids, you must expose the seeds to a
sterilant capable of killing the live bacteria and bloomed fungus, but
not kill off the seeds at the same time! There is a number of chemicals
used but it is possible to get excellent success with
common household bleach. The trick is to expose the seed to the
solution long enough to kill the bacteria, but not the seeds.
About 5 percent V/V of household chlorox made with sterilized
distilled water, when exposed to the contaminated seeds for a total
time of 10 minutes and followed with a double rinse of sterile
distilled water works in 70 or 80 percent of all contaminated seed
sowing cases.

Operations in the Sterile Cabinet
Great care should be taken to ensure
that your cultures are free from
contamination. To achieve this do the followings:
1- Tie back your hair, roll your sleeves up and remove your watch and
other jewellery. Wash your hands thoroughly with the disinfectant
solution suitable for skin application. If allergic to any disinfectant
wash your hands with water and wear a pair of surgical gloves.
2- Sterilise the inside of the cabinet by spraying with 70%
alcohol and wiping dry with sterile tissue.
3- Collect and organise all the items you will need close to or
inside the cabinet.
4- Working in the cabinet, take a sterilised piece of stem from
the jar with a pair of forceps (do not touch the plant material with
your hands). Also sterilise your instruments by dipping them in alcohol
between each manipulation and flaming them. Small pieces, 2-3 cm long
with a few leaves can be cut and transferred to agar medium. If the
leaves are too large either remove them or cut them to 1/3-1/2 the
size. Put one piece of the shoot into each container (it is important
to have only one shoot per container at this stage so that if the shoot
is contaminated it cannot spread to the others). Shut the lids of the
containers. Store jars at room temperature away from direct sunlight.
Leave these shoots for one month.
For the orchid seed pod. With the scalpel blade scrape out a portion of
the seed in the opened pod and drop it into the opened seed sowing
flask.
Shut the lids of the
containers. Bring the containers out of box after you finished sowing
all seeds into different containers.
You should grow the replates and mother flasks in a warm (70-75
degree F.) dry place with 8 hours of artificial light at around 100
foot candles, or by natural light of around 300 foot candles measured
at noon on a clear day.

One of these three things will
happen during this time: some of the
shoots (seeds) will be killed
by the chlorine solution and or the toxin
produced by plants themselves; some will be contaminated by fungi and
bacteria; or seeds get green and larger , new shoots will grow very rapidly from the axils of
the
stems in the uncontaminated containers. Discard the dead and infested
cultures.
Shoot Multiplication
The shoots from the previous stage may
have elongated during the past
four weeks. They need to be transferred to the medium containing the
coconut milk (coconut milk has some growth promotory properties which
makes plant segments to produce more shoots) for further
multiplication.
1- Repeat the preparation and
sterilisation steps for the medium,
instruments and chamber as before. Sterilise your hands as before too.
2- Transfer the containers of shoots to one side of the cabinet and the
sterilised medium at the other side.
3- Use sterile paper towelling, scalpels and forceps as before.
4- With a pair of forceps, remove a stem from its container, and cut on
the surface of the sterile paper towelling moistened with some sterile
water. It is important to do all the manipulation on a damp paper towel
as these plants are very soft and can desiccate readily. The separated
shoots can be transferred to the new jars. At this stage, up to five
pieces of plant may be put inside each container.
5- Store cultures as explained in the previous stage.
The multiplication stage may be
repeated every four weeks until
enough plants have been obtained. As a general rule shoots can multiply
3-4 folds every four weeks. The important point to note here is that
high rate of contamination during this stage suggests that you are
getting air borne contaminants due to poor hygiene.
Root Formation
Once you have established enough
shoots, let them grow to at least 2 cm
before beginning the rooting process. Transfer shoots to the rooting
medium containing coconut milk and malt. Up to five shoots may be put
in each culture vessel. Store containers in their usual place as
before. Roots should form within two to four weeks.
Transfer to Potting Mix
(Acclimatisation)
The operation at this stage is carried
out on the open bench. The
rooted cultures can be treated as follows:
1-
Fill the pots with suitable potting mix without any fertiliser and
water well. Allow to drain.
2-
Remove the rooted plants from agar medium using a pair of forceps.
3-
Wash off the agar thoroughly from the roots using lukewarm water.
4-
Insert a hole in the middle of the potting mix and gently insert the
roots in that hole.
5-
Spray the foliage with a hand spray containing water. These pots can
be kept inside a larger plastic containers with a glass cover, out of
the direct sunlight. Gradually remove the glass cover but watch for
signs of desiccation and if needed use the hand spray to spray water on
the foliage.

6- When the roots are well established and the plants are
acclimatised
(this should take about 4-6 weeks), they can be given fertiliser and be
treated like any other plant. It is advisable to gradually increase the
light intensity for the plants too.